Cartier Santos

Ah yes, the Cartier Santos. I feel like I talk so much about this watch that you all already know the origin story, but, if you don’t, you can read the "nitty gritty" section below (spoiler alert: it is argued to be the first-ever wristwatch officially made for men, thanks to a strike of genius on behalf of the visionary Louis Cartier). But… that was in the 1900s. Let’s talk about now… and how this watch is coveted amongst it-boys and girls alike. You may be used to seeing the two-tone version (which Lou Reed famously wore), but this all gold version is weighed down with a little extra swag. A solid 18K yellow gold Santos? Say less. But I have to say more. It's automatic. And, this was the choice of Argentine soccer legend Diego Maradona. Because he was a smaller man, he wore this specific size. If it’s good enough for a legend, it should be good enough for you!

THE BASICS

DATE OF BIRTH: Circa 1980s

MATERIAL: 18K yellow gold

SIZE: The small version (24mm x 35mm)

MOVEMENT: Automatic

CONDITION: Very good, light scratching on the bezel and throughout 

BOX/PAPERS: No/no

THE NITTY GRITTY

A solid 18K yellow gold Cartier Santos. Perhaps alongside the Tank, the Santos is the most iconic of all Cartier watch designs. Not only is it very distinctive to the eye, but it also carries the title of the first men’s wristwatch ever made. A relationship between the early Brazilian aviator Santos Dumont and Louis Cartier led to the creation of the watch that bore his name. After complaining to Louis Cartier about how difficult it was to check a pocket watch while trying to fly, Cartier came up with a solution for his intrepid Brazilian friend. And so, the Cartier Santos was born. The November 1906 film, which shows Santos’s 21.5 seconds of flight, also features the first wristwatch hard at work!

This watch is powered by the Cartier ETA-made automatic movement. It has the classic design elements: the screw-down crystal frame and the bracelet set with all the screws. The dial is classic Cartier: Roman numerals with the hidden signature at the 1 on 10 o’clock, chemin de fer minute track, sword-blued steel hands, and blue sapphire-set winding crown. Due to the smaller size of this model, there is no room for the date window which is found on the larger sizes. This creates a cleaner, simplified look overall. The dial has crazing to it, as is very common with watches from this period (the enamel that was used on the dial has a tendency to craze).  However, in this example, it looks amazing and, under magnification, almost akin to a Roman mosaic floor. It can only be clearly seen through a magnifying loupe and is mentioned here for transparency

The watch is presented in good original condition, lightly polished with strong lines and clean throughout. Of all of the iterations of this model, this more angular, original take on the 1906 icon is, to us, the best. A cult classic worn by many icons over the years, this is now becoming the must-have Cartier again, and who doesn’t love it in an all gold automatic version?