Cartier Tank Française

“The Lady Di” is what we’ve adoringly nicknamed the gold version of the Cartier Tank Française. This watch was indeed the choice of Princess Diana in her later, post-divorce years. Released in 1996, the Française has the core design elements of the storied Tank Louis, this time presented in a more minimal, jewelry-forward package. The architecture of this watch, with its integrated bracelet and angular case shape, results in a near industrial effect – all heavy metal and sharp lines. It’s a sturdy watch, balanced out by signature Cartier elegance. And it also happens to be my first-ever luxury watch (you can read about my shopping adventure via Vogue). Although my collection has since grown, the Française remains my daily. One simply cannot deny its versatility and ability to elevate any outfit without stealing the show. I love it for its lowkey nature, which… in this all-gold reference… Okay, maybe it’s not the most low-key. But if you’re lucky enough to invest in a Cartier-signed chunk of gold, you may as well go with Diana’s favorite. 

THE BASICS 

DATE OF BIRTH: Circa 2000’s

MATERIAL: Solid eighteen carat yellow gold 

SIZE: 20mm x 25mm

MOVEMENT: Quartz

CONDITION: Excellent

BOX/PAPERS: Yes/Yes

THE NITTY GRITTY:

A solid eighteen carat yellow gold Cartier Tank Française model on its original eighteen carat yellow gold bracelet. The last major introduction into the iconic Cartier Tank line was this, the Française. This model, which took its design cues from French architecture, was introduced to be more of a bracelet watch than simply a watch. The bracelet on this model is thicker and integrates more seamlessly into the case, a distinction from its predecessors – the Tank Americaine, launched in 1989, and the Tank Louis introduced all the way back in 1922.

The watch still retains all the details that Cartier lovers flock to the brand for – the Roman numeral dial with a chemin de fer minute track, featuring the ten o’clock marker holding the hidden Cartier signature, sword shape blued steel hands and a blue sapphire set winding crown. This model, being the smallest version, features a clean, simple dial with no date window located at the three or six o'clock positions.

The heavy and beautifully made bracelet seamlessly joins the case and is opened through a butterfly clasp on the back center, the inside of which is fully stamped with Cartier control marks and gold assay marks. The screw back caseback is also fully signed with the unique Cartier serial number and model number. The overall condition of the watch is superb, the watch is likely unpolished with no issues at all. The dial is perfect.

Essentially an evolution from the DNA of Cartier’s most iconic watch, this model, for many, remains a coveted version of the classic. Many notable people have worn this watch over the years, and continue to pick this model out from the ever increasing Cartier lineup.  However, with this watch now being redesigned in 2023 to very mixed reviews, this original version is sure to become increasingly sought out, especially full sets in this condition.

All watches are protected against mechanical failure under a 1 year warranty by Foundwell.