Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Oof, the Reverso. A watch that has transcended time and trend since its inception in 1931. The Reverso was born from a very chic request: a businessman needed a watch to withstand his polo matches. And so, the Reverso was designed – a watch that could be “reversed” on the wrist during sport, and reversed back to display the time off the field. Whether or not you personally play polo is not relevant here (but if you do… goals). It’s a sturdy, elegant watch rooted in nearly 100 years of history. (I first discovered it upon seeing a photo of Julie Andrews wearing one next to Anne Hathaway in the Princess Diaries era). And if you get this watch for yourself or a loved one, may I recommend engraving the smooth gold side. It’s a perfect canvas. 

THE BASICS: 

DATE OF BIRTH: Circa 1990’s

MATERIAL: 18 carat yellow gold and diamonds

SIZE: 23 x 38mm

MOVEMENT: Mechanical Caliber 822 

CONDITION: Very good, unpolished

BOX/PAPERS: No/No

THE NITTY GRITTY: 

A solid 18 carat yellow gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso set with factory diamonds along the frame of its quite unique and mesmerizing case. Perhaps the most remarkable of all watch cases ever made, this masterpiece in question came to fruition based on a simple request: In 1930, businessman César de Trey was challenged to find a way to protect the glass of a watch for polo players during matches. de Trey’s idea was inspired – a case that could be rotated, shielding the delicate crystal covered dial. He approached his friend Jacques-David LeCoultre to produce the watch and the pair engaged René-Alfred Chauvot to design it. From this moment the “Reverso” was born.

The watch has been a favorite of Royals, Polo players and the world’s upwardly mobile since its inception in 1931. Spending a minute with it in the hands and on the wrist, it is very easy to see why. One can always judge a watch by its longevity. This watch was again the star of the show for Jaeger-LeCoultre at their booth at Watches & Wonders in Geneva. 

This example is a very rare re-issue from the 1990s. The dial chosen to sit atop the movement is actually a classic “boiler gauge” style layout that was seen on a number of the original watches from the 1930’s. This is also a very expensive dial to put together.  The numbers are all hand cut out and pinned to the dial, along with the two center hour blocks. The minute track sits in the center, giving it that gauge look. The proportions overall are beautiful. The very simple solid gold hands are the perfect way to tell the time as it passes by.

There have been more than 50 calibers that have been developed for the Reverso range over the years. From quartz models, all the way through to the most complicated dual time pieces. This example features the classic mechanical 822 movement. JLC, aside from being a wonderful watchmaker, were a movement maker to many of their competitors over the years. Their ebauches proved worthy platforms for many other watch brands to use. The movement that resides in this watch, needless to say, is exemplary. It is also more unusual for a watch from this period to be fitted with the mechanical movements as, by this time, a number had been switched over to quartz.

The condition of the watch overall is very good. It has some light scratches, but again, as we explore to look for, it remains unpolished. The dial is perfect throughout, and the case back once flipped is also good with no signs of prior engraving or heavy deep scratches. The lizard band attached is perhaps original. There is also a JLC plaqueé buckle attached.

Overall, this is a stunning watch that does not look out of place on anyone's wrist today.  A true testament to the original watch rapidly approaching its centenary.