Universal Genéve Polerouter

I first discovered this watch stalking TikToker Nolan White. He declared the Universal Genève Polerouter one of the last remaining bargains on the (men's) vintage watch scene, citing its notable history, design, movement quality and pedigree. Ever heard of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? What about the Patek Philippe Nautilus? Both of these watches were designed by Gèrald Genta, who… drum roll… designed this as his first ever watch at age 24! I’m crying thinking about baby GG. Speaking of baby, this Polerouter is the LADIES version, clocking in at a cute as hell baby size (exact dimensions below). One of you better buy this gem before I do. Mark Nolan’s words… it’s one of the last remaining bargains. But not for long.

DATE OF BIRTH: C.1960’s

MATERIAL: Stainless steel

SIZE: 20.5mm across by 27.5mm long

MOVEMENT: Automatic ETA 2355

CONDITION: New Old Stock (!)

BOX/PAPERS: No/No

THE NITTY GRITTY:

A stainless steel, screw back, time only Universal Genève Polerouter. As far as time only watches go from the 1960’s, this one is up there with design icons. Designed by the man of the moment, Gérald Genta, in 1954 by a then-24 year old up-and-coming watch designer. It was a partnership with Scandinavian Airline System (SAS) and Universal for a timepiece to be more resistant to the strong magnetic fields at the North and South poles. In fact, the flight route is engraved on the case back of the larger size cases.  

The case itself is very handsome and does an excellent job of pairing a sporty feel with a more refined dress watch. Part of this is due to the lyre lugs that can also be found on the iconic Omega Speedmaster. The dial design is very true to Genta’s original: no date, cross hair, sloped rehaut. Unlike the larger case size, this is a non-luminous dial,  meaning there is no application of Tritium material to either the hands or the dial.

The watch is a real time capsule. It is presented in a ‘New Old Stock’ condition. The case is unpolished with the correct, signed “U” logo crown. The original strap and buckle are also present, both signed. The watch is powered by a Universal caliber 2355 automatic movement.

This is a rare chance to buy an unusual watch by one of the world’s most sought after watch designers in superb, untouched condition.