Zodiac Astrographic

WEIRD WATCH APPRECIATION! This Zodiac watch is very Jetsons (a cartoon you might not even know about if you're under the age of 30). The early '70s futuristic look is deeply inspired by the space-crazed, moon landing-obsessed cultural climate of the time. It has a "mystery dial", meaning it was designed to give the illusion that everything is floating Fun to look at and even more fun to talk about if you're scrambling for a nice party trick. 

THE BASICS

DATE OF BIRTH: 1970’s

MATERIAL: Stainless Steel Gold Plated

SIZE: 31mm

MOVEMENT: Automatic Caliber 46-47

CONDITION: Excellent 

BOX/PAPERS: No/No

THE NITTY GRITTY:

A Swiss made, rare, ladies version of the ‘helmet’ style case with what is known as a mystery dial. This very unusual, and – it's fair to say – unique watch was launched by the Zodiac watch company in 1969. It is quite easy to understand how this watch came to pass! The moon landing and all things space were very much part of the end of the 1960’s, and inspiration from these momentous moments in human history were being repeated all over the design world from car design through to furniture. Watch design was not to be left out.  

Carrying a case shape design quite similar to certain Omega watches from the time, like the Flightmaster, the sunburst finished case sits higher on the wrist than most case shapes, which is not a bad thing. It also serves to almost place this stunning and playful dial on a pedestal. The Mystery Dial, as it is known, is not a new thing to the 1960’s. Far from it. Makers such as Cartier and Jaeger LeCoultre put this style of three hand time telling on the map on both wrist and clock form back in the 1920’s. Many of the aforementioned sell well into seven figures today. It works by having three separate glass plates that are powered by gears that run along the edge moving each plate at the desired rates. This replaces the classic centrally mounted hand system. This gives the impression that the hands are floating inside the watch. It is very pleasing on the eye and a very cool party trick. These watches use a large toughened crystal on the outside which has the dial markers painted onto the inside along with the Zodiac logo. Sadly, these parts are scarce, so many of these have succumb to damage and cannot be easily replaced, thus ruining the watch. The hour markers on the crystal are also set with tritium luminous material which shine wonderfully under UV light.

The other element that makes this watch so special can also be its downfall for many examples. Dirt and debris can get in between the plates and scratch and discolor the three different discs which spoils the overall appearance. That is very much not the case in this instance. The watch really is presented in nearly new condition. This also makes a clear path to showcase the beautiful gold, also sunburst finish, dial. There is a date window at the 3 o’clock position which is quick set, making it quite advanced for the time. Rolex, for example, did not introduce a quick set date until the late 1970’s!

This great looking watch is fitted, via a hooded lug-style attachment, to a JB Champion mesh bracelet. This beautiful 10k gold filled bracelet really suits the watch, as opposed to the thicker link bracelet on other models. Tapered in design, it works like a belt which can be fitted to comfortably go on any wrist.  Period correct, it could well be the original option fitted to this gold plated version of the watch. Champion made a number of bracelets for many high end watch makers at the time, such as Omega and Rolex. Do not think of this as some cheap addition.

Zodiac, today owned by the Fossil watch company, recently reintroduced the Astrographic model, such is the unique style and interesting detail. This example, however, is the original version, and in basically ‘deadstock’ condition. If you are looking for something with a great look and unique appeal, it is hard to beat this watch.

All watches are protected against mechanical failure under a 1 year warranty by Foundwell.